When I was nine years old, my father and I took an amazing month-long journey around the South Island. You would think that a month is a long time to spend on an island, but the South has so much to see and do, that it is not enough. Nadia and I are attempting the journey in ten days.
Many things have happened but I will elaborate mainly on Stewart Island, Rakiura, the Anchor Of Aoraki's Canoe. It is situated an hour by boat off the southern shores of the South Island. I went there as a nine year old and was enchanted by it. You can't bring cars there, but nor would you need to, as there is only one road, and it's about 5 miles long. The road and the township of Oban take up about 2% of the body of the Island, and the rest is wild, primeval forest, punctured only by walking tracks. The bush has many kiwi in it, and if you travel to certain parts you will probably see a kiwi foraging. It takes ten days to do the Rakiura track, walking fast.
We weren't planning to go to Stewart Island at first. The ferry was a bit expensive and we would've had to leave our car behind. It was a toss up between Stewart Island and the Milford Track. In the end we thought, "oh, lets drive down to the port, stay in a backpackers there and think about it." But oh, we should have heeded the teaching of our island instructors. We underestimated the siren call of the mysterious floating body. Once at the ferry terminal, we looked at each other and said. "Let's go. Now." And so we found ourselves hurtling throught the Foveaux Strait, where the sea was so rough the boat actually left the water at times, and waves crashed completely over us. It was thrilling. But I digress.
Stewart Island makes New Zealand (North and South Island, but Stewart Islanders call the big islands New Zealand, as if they themselves are not part of it) look like a continent. Everyone on the island knows each other. Nadia and I had only been there for a few hours, and already we had caused a stir of curiosity, accompanied by oversexed locals, wondering what the motivation might be for two young women to be travelling alone, unaccompanied by other men! Having never really been part of a small town, I found this very entertaining. If I had to do an Island study all over again, Stewart Island would definitely be on my top three. It's a cold, windy, wild place at the bottom of the world, and the locals find this completely unremarkable. "It's just like any small town," said one. Everyone is situated in the same area, the island is still largely unaffected by tourism, it's small, it's got a fascinating native and colonial history...ahh, so much acadaemia, so little time. Time was what made us leave the place.
As for our current whereabouts, we are in the mountain town of Wanaka at present, right above Queenstown but not so disgustingly touristy. Huge tourism centers are like Kryptonite for us, which is why we didn't want to stay in Queenstown for even one night. It's a beautiful area; why did they have to stick a big ugly tourist trap on it?
This New Zealand stuff is becoming more natural every day. Curioser and Curioser.