WE WENT THERE!
June 05, 2004
May 24, 2004
Let the Islands Conference Begin
It has been a month since we gathered at the Longhouse for our welcome back
potluck. Tomorrow the Islands Conference opens at Evergreen. In case there
are any blog fans out there who would like to see the conference schedule,
here is the link http://mediaspace.evergreen.edu/islands/schedule.html.
April 19, 2004
Home in my Fare
I got back to Olympia late Sunday night (18th) and couldn't sleep until I unpacked and looked at my shells etc. Difficult transition for many reasons but I feel especially grateful for all the lessons I have learned on the journey, especially from Huahine herself!
By the way I flew over to Huahine for 8 hours on Friday (my last full day in Polynesia) for one last look, one last lunch with Marty and Dorothy (excellent poisson cru and sashimi) and a little more filming in Fare proper. It was worth it in every way: a. to see if my feelings had changed about the island {No}, b. to say good-bye again without blubbering {Yes}, and c. to verify that I can return anytime I want to {Yes, although it will be more than a 15 minute plane flight!}.
I am beginning to sort through my images and sounds (1540 digital images for example) and to think about how I want to proceed with my project. I haven't budged from home today, however. It's raining here. I can remember the sunlight and the colors so that is important.
Maeva (Welcome) to all you fabulous Islanders as you begin to trickle back into Olympia this week. I look forward to hearing all the stories and seeing your faces next Monday. It is hard to think about ending this blog...so I think I will keep posting a few images as I work with them and my impressions of the next few weeks.
April 14, 2004
Raiatea Images
So it's Easter and we are ready to go to the Evangelical Church in Uturoa.
Unlike Palm Sunday in Taravau where all fifty members of the conversation kissed us, it was a more formal event. I managed to record some himene while Jin took copious notes.
Here is Emil who gave me a home-made ukelele and taught me the Tahitian strum.
The Mamas (and some papas) of Huahine perform aboard the Princess line.
Wonderful singing and spirited dancing that I recorded in MD, S-8 and 320 x 240 video on my still camera.
Raiatea, the Sacred Isle, has been wonderful to explore by land and sea--
but once you have found your island, nothing is quite the same anywhere else.
Huahine, at sunset, last night of our stay at the Big Pink
So there you go. Maruuru, Huahine. Pork chop here we come.
April 13, 2004
I found music
Raiatea has been a very interesting part of my journey in that I have managed to record more music here than on Huahine (with the exception of the 80 minutes I have of the Mamas singing and drumming...just logged this MD this morning). We are staying at the Sunset Beach and the first night I heard these distant drums. I ventured out, stumbling around with my recorder and mic, scared a French guy who told me it was further up the road. It was very dream-like. So the next night Jin, Craig and I drove along the road trying to hear drums. We found this house and I recorded slightly less distant drums. Then Craig said he would go into to the compound with me. I recorded more drums and talked to folks, holding my little ear buds up to the musicians' ears. I told them I would come back the next night and make them a recording. One drummer knew the MD technology. I returned with Craig and recorded 12 tracks for them....they are a group called Maire, rehearsing for the big July Heiva competition and about 30 young Tahitians were also practicing dancing.
Difficult to photograph but I did get a few shots.
Then the next day we went to lunch at Nina and Albert's (the mother of Lydia, Craig and Jin's connection who influenced our decision to come to French Polynesia in the first place. They had asked a neighbor (Emil) to come over because he played the guitar. One thing led to another...I played, he went and got this very simple uke that he made, I played it for what seemed to be hours, he gave it to me, and they all said I should just stay because I play the uke just like a Tahitian. Well, we know that isn't true but what a thrill.
All for today...I will post some images on Thursday or Friday. We are off to Tahaa on the water taxi tomorrow.
April 07, 2004
New Places
I am writing from Raiatea....a reluctant destination but thankfully, because of the Papeete shock which equals noise, polution, a dark and hot little room and Marilyn's departure, I can appreciate what I find here.
Significantly, we visited Marae Taputapuatea this morning. Like visiting the Vatican of Polynesia in a way. The origin. The source. It was a standard tour in French so I just made a lot of photographs, wandering off from the group. I could see Huahine from the marae and that was a comfort. I also called M. from the site with my vini phone....wonders of the modern world. I told the guide in French that I was just taking the place in through my senses, my feelings and my birds. I meant to say eyes!
On Tahiti we connected with Sabrina who is a radio journalist and an activist and also Dorothy's daughter. Also, with Wendy who is Marty's daughter. Both visits were extremely good and helped ease the transition as well.
I cannot believe that a. I have been here nearly six weeks and b. have just about 10 days remaining. I am trying to make more drawings and did one of a guardian of a marae on Tahiti yesterday. I also did Dialogue with Events as Marilyn suggested. I found that especially helpful as I am winding up the journey. Love to you all...old friends, new friends, and family.
March 31, 2004
Huahine good-byes
We leave tomorrow for Tahiti. I don't want to go; don't feel finished with my work here but then of course, realize 1. it will never be finished and 2. I will be back. The good-byes are difficult-we made some very important new friends. One of these took Marilyn and me on board the big cruise ship yesterday to film the music and dance of the Huahine Mamas. The politics of tourism and local culture was enacted before our eyes. I won't blog about this but have a poignent and complex story to tell. I just finished a one hour time lapse of the view from Chez Guynette, a center of one universe. I have collected the images and sounds I hoped to find here. One more snorkle this afternoon, a farewell drink and conversation with Marty and Dorothy, a grilled fish for dinner, and then off to Papeete.
March 25, 2004
Huahine images
Sally sings in the sea
The colors I see.
One Hottie
Another Huahine sunrise
As we approach the end of our fourth week here, I am grateful to all the friends we have made in Fare. Highlights of the week include a 4.5 hour hike to marae sites with Paul, a sunset Tai Chi lesson from Chantal, a spectacular Italian lunch with Dorothy, Marty and Mark which featured wide-ranging conversations, shooting film of the sea, drawing and of course swimming. I came to the internet cafe primarily to print out a short play I wrote/composed this morning based on the dreams of the Huahine Hotties. We will rehearse it tonight and then record it. Two more Hotties leave for home on Saturday. We too will soon be leaving for Tahiti. What a time. The piece by the way is entitled Huahine is your dream.
March 22, 2004
Prayers
It is the beginning of our fourth week on Huahine. We all are still struggling with the fact of Jacinta's death on Friday, March 19. For any of you reading this news for the first time, our hearts are with you. Jacinta suffered a fatal asthma attack after midnight on the 19th. All of us here loved her very much. We have made two ocean side shrines and an altar with shells, feathers, a drawing of her by Marilyn, and other objects. We keep a candle burning for her and in the Tahitian way will keep a nine day vigil for her as her soul readies for the next journey around the mountains.
We all send our love and count ourselves among so many lucky people who
were so deeply touched by her love, gift of laughter, generousity, and grace.
March 18, 2004
Huahine Nautique
Third week in Huahine and it still is as magical as the first one. Earlier in the week we welcomed more Hotties to our island. Peter Randlette and Ruth Hayes arrived on Sunday. Craig, Jin?s husband flew in on Monday. Janet leaves tomorrow. We took the opportunity this week to do some things with the visitors such as hiring a piroque for a four hour circumnavigation of both islands with two astounding snorkel adventures on the way. At one point all of us floated about a mile in a strong current over coral beds while Moana trailed us in the boat. As we came to a motu for a fruit snack, he took out his Tahitian ukelele (8 strings, different tuning) and serenaded us with a song. I asked him about it and of course, played for him. That one Tahitian song, Potee Moana that we learned has come in very handy. It was a big hit. He zipped up to another piroque and had me play it for his friend. We all sang ?Ain?t He Sweet? and he concluded with the Hinano beer song. I have made many more photographs since last week and am about to start shooting film. Every thing proceeds at its own pace here. And that acquisition of patience with myself and the experience has been part of the great lesson of this journey. We cook fabubous meals. Everyone has work to do?.Marilyn is busy with her monoprints, Ruth makes drawings, Mom photographs, Peter also. Jin is busy with her interviews and writing. We have also started making sound recordings: I want to record a Huahine musical piece involving any instrument we can assemble as well as the sound of the sea and birds.
Today is our 19th day on Huahine.. With my Mom?s departure tomorrow I can already sense the end of my stay as well but as Marty of ClubBed says, once you visit Huahine, you always come back. I hope so.
March 12, 2004
Dawn Lady Huahine
Okay, here is an early landscape.
That's a moveable feast not a game of chance.
View image
I do not know if I am actually posting these images but here is another one.
Huahine Hot
It has been very hot this week....and very sunny. I am not complaining. I made my first photographs and drawing of the marae. Everything takes so much longer. I also cleaned and cooked 20 lagoon fish yesterday. My niece, Stacey leaves tonight...she managed three dives and says the diving here is top notch. I stick to snorkling....several times a day. Marilyn had us making mono prints last night in the kitchen. This will be a short post as I am going to go to the other
internet access place and try to upload a few images.
March 09, 2004
Huahine Tuesday
At ClubBed and the internet cyber point in Fare. We walked into town with my Mom, Janet who arrived on Sunday. Huge group of women were waiting for the
boat to Raiatea. Are due to give a concert tonight on Tahaa in honor of international women's day. I took some digital photos and will print them on
my card printer to bring to them tomorrow. Three generations of women-just like us
Last night we had a celebration. Lea and Hiro prepared Tahitian food including
poisson cru and poi. We provided vegie stir fry, rice a la Walter and green bean
salad. Jin's French was pushed to the limit. I am trying as hard as I can but
have a long way to go.
I have made another drawing and am studying the landscape. I just started
using 35mm film after about 150 digital studies.
Time has slowed down considerably and that is excellent.
Again, I am on that pesky French keyboard so this will be short.
Love to all.
March 04, 2004
Vanished blog regained
I am rewriting my vanished blog entry from March 3. It has been a rainy, rainy tropical day. Just like the film Rain set in the tropics. But it is still beautiful and wonderful here in Fare. We have settled into a small routine, with shopping for meals and establishing the household as highest priority. I have started with my documentation kit, making a map, drawing the tiare Tahiti [botanical assignment] and beginning the social/cultural study with a recce to the local pharmacy. I wonder what would qualify as a factory on sleepy Huahine..a black pearl farm? Last night we had a ukelele song fest. The ukes have already been a hit. On our first day as we were getting settled at the house, Tsing Tsing asked about the ukeleles. I told him and Clara and Lea that I thought we might know a Tahitian song. We sang Potee Moana [the song Jin and performed at the bon voyage party]. They all joined in and said it was perfect. Of course they were speaking French, so they might have said it was perfectly awful!
The first days were sunny and I have snorkeled and kayaked. I also have been walking all over the little port town of Fare. It is a marvelous place, with little shops and local women selling fresh vegetables in the morning. We are in search of a source of fresh fish?have some leads. In my travel proposal I wrote that local activities would be waiting for the boat to arrive on the quay and looking at the sacred blue-eyed eels. That was about right in terms of the level of activity! I have watched the loading of watermelons on the quay but haven?t seen the eels.
My mom and niece arrive on Sunday so we are excited about their visit. Janet [Mom] has read all the program books and has a photography project of her own. So the Islands community extends beyond our class.
The internet connection is difficult so I am sympathetic about how we all limit our time waiting in internet cafes and type clumsily on unfamiliar keyboards. I will try to upload a picture or two next time but on these slow modems, it is a whole new reality in terms of the technology we have come to take for granted. Hope all are well. Nana Nana.
That?s bye bye in Tahitian.
PS Actually I am posting this on March 4 and it has been a picture-perfect day. Up since 5 am. Beautiful sunrise, beautiful sun all day. Jin is waiting to post her blog so I will sign off and see if I can go buy a big fish.
March 03, 2004
oh boy
I just wrote a long blog entry and then it got erased. I guess that was for my eyes only. So I am just posting a quick note to say all is well. Wonderful kayaking on the lagoon. Steamy rain this morning. Off now to shop for a book
on tatooing. Nana.
March 01, 2004
Arrived March 1
It is midmorning in downtown Fare Huahine. I am struggling with the French keyboard so this will be brief. After a somewhat grueling 24 hour journey we discovered that the isle that "chose me" is magnifique. The journey seemed to be broken up into 6 hour segments...one of which was spent sleeping on the floor at the Papeete airport...and I thought I was too old for this kind of rough travel. For those who need it, our Polynesian cell phone number is incorrect. Just replace the final zero with a six. We swam in the lagoon right off the veranda hours after we arrived and will do more of that today. I did my first
documentation kit assignment this morning: be there for a sunrise. I expect to do this often. All for now-I do not want to pay 30 cents a minute to prqctice to practice my French typing skills.
February 26, 2004
The way we were
Remember?
February 24, 2004
Have Uke, Will Travel
Jin and I spent the better part of today packing and unpacking our bags to make sure we met the absolutely stringent weight and size requirements on Air Tahiti. I had already decided to ditch the ukelele but hey, Jin convinced me that we have to take it. Actually we are going to take two ukeleles. Visit her blog to see details.
Here we are performing at the Islands bon voyage party. We are definitely not wearing these Hawaiian shirts any longer.
February 17, 2004
I need a retreat
As Marlene Dietrich said in The Seventh Sinner, I need a retreat but I am running out of Islands.
Well, we are certainly NOT running out of Islands. And it is terrific to hear the
stories as folks check in from all over the world.
I am finishing up two film projects. Have two dresses now for Huahine church; none as astounding as the dress on the Huahine Hotties postcard. Counting the
days.
February 12, 2004
Here we go
Last two days of evaluation conferences and the bon voyage party are all that stand between us and good-byes to the Islands travelers. Jin and I will stay behind for
two weeks, looking for those opening blog entries about arrivals. Waiting to see
everyone safely established on their islands all over the world. I made a major
decision last weekend to take a Super 8 camera instead of a big video rig. What
a relief to focus on analog for this project. Nana Nana or bye bye to all.
February 04, 2004
"Toru" Means Three
I have just posted my project prospectus for the Huahine adventure. Check it
out here: http://academic.evergreen.edu/c/cloninsj/prospectus.html.
What a time this is...for all of us.
January 31, 2004
Islands Motto
January 30, 2004
Gone Troppo
From our reading this week (K.R. Howe's Nature, Culture and History, the Knowing of Oceania) I find the term, "gone troppo" which is definitely not a compliment in that it is used disparagingly to describe "white men" in the tropics who have gone "morally and physically astray." But hey, why not be "gone troppo" without the cruelty and depravity. Gone from care, from driving rain, from meetings, and schedules.
Of the many other interesting concepts in this book was the discussion of Tahiti as a possible location for an earthly paradise. He says, "since paradise was not there, it was nowhere on earth. Thus was paradise lost." A number of us (especially folks going to the Pacific) are thinking about the concept of paradise.
It's a complicated conceptual idea but one that is fascinating in light of Pacific Island histories.
January 25, 2004
Thinking about the landscape
This week I read Miriam Kahn's essay, "Tahiti Intertwined: Ancestral Land, Tourist Postcard, and Nuclear Test Site." As some of you know, I am interested in photographing a sense of place on my journey and have made images of the landscapes of my other journeys for many years. Kahn's essay raised interesting questions for me about this endeavor. Among these were the ideas
about how the postcard view of the South Seas is problematic from a ideological perspective. She says, "in French Polynesia, the Office of Tourism is the prime
producer of these images that 'fragment' and 'kill'" (she is referring to the constructed view of paradise that is at odds with the Tahitian 'reality'). This reading led me to several other new sources on the Anthropology of the Landscape.
So I have been reading about space/place as a cultural construction, ancestral sites, and insider v. outsider views of the land. In Kahn's essay she also uses the term, third space, to denote the social space or the lived space that is a more
useful approach. She says, "Tahiti is understood instead as an intertwined thirdspace, equally read and imagined, immediate and mediated (place, colonialism, imagery, tourism, nuclear testing)." I think about my impulse to
make my own postcards while there. And wonder how I will enter into a
relationship with the landscape of Huahine.
January 19, 2004
Landscape #2
January 15, 2004
Landscape #1
